How Old Surfers Taught Me the Power and Importance of Original Thinking

Every time I head out for a paddle, there he is: the old fella. He’s a fixture at the beach, hobbling down the sand with his busted shoulder, knee replaced, and the same weathered 5-foot board he’s ridden since he was 15. Fifty years later, he’s still doing, thinking, and playing the same way. And don’t get me wrong—there’s a huge amount of respect for anyone who gets into the ocean, especially when their body’s breaking down. But come on, man, there are other options!

I ride a SUP—yes, a stand-up paddleboard. I’m out there on my longboard SUP or shortboard SUP, catching waves that others can’t even dream of reaching. On small surf days, I paddle the entire stretch of beach, picking off waves, working my fitness, and growing stronger. Meanwhile, the old-timers? They sit in the same spot for hours, barely moving, barely catching anything, riding the same wave—if they’re lucky—that they’ve ridden for decades. It’s like watching a replay of the same old tape.

What’s stopping them from breaking out of that cycle? I’ll tell you: it’s not just the busted body or the aching joints; it’s the mindset. There’s a stubborn resistance to think outside the box, to even consider new ways of doing things. It’s not just about riding a SUP—it’s about trying something new, being open to change, and maintaining curiosity. SUP is one of the original water sports—it came long before shortboard surfing—but when I paddle out, I’m met with sneers and scoffs, as if what I’m doing isn’t "real surfing."

But here’s the thing: this rigid thinking doesn’t just break your body; it breaks your spirit. These guys look worn out, not just from the years of wear and tear on their joints, but from the exhaustion that comes with living inside a narrow mindset. The ocean should rejuvenate them, fill them with life, and yet, you can see it on their faces—agitation, frustration, tiredness.

I once suggested to a surfing buddy that he give SUP a go since he’s getting older and his body isn’t what it used to be. His reply? "I’ll just go fishing." Cool, mate. You can sit onshore and fish while I catch 50 waves and stay in shape.

But this response is telling—it’s more than just laziness or pride. I think it’s fear. Fear of trying something new and getting teased by the boys. Imagine that, at 50 years old, still worried about being mocked by your mates for thinking differently. It makes me wonder—did these guys ever have the confidence to carve their own path? Did they ever develop the ability to think for themselves? Or have they just been going with the flow, following the same tired patterns?

What I see so clearly in the ocean every day is the failure to grow, to extend beyond the norm, to stay open. These older surfers are the same generation that once represented rebellion, freedom, and the thrill of new frontiers. Now? They’ve fallen in line, just like the people onshore they once swore they’d never be like. It’s ironic, and it’s tragic.

The lesson I’ve learned from them is simple: original thinking keeps you alive. It keeps your body fit, your mind sharp, and your spirit full of zest. The moment you close yourself off from new ideas, new experiences, or new ways of thinking, you begin to break down. You become that tired old guy, sitting on the same busted board, stuck in the same place, while the world—while life—passes you by.

So, here’s to trying new things, thinking outside the box, and paddling out into life with curiosity, confidence, and a whole lot of waves.